Why Your Weatherboard Home Deserves Better Than a "She'll Be Right" Paint Job

G'day, I'm Brad, and I've been painting weatherboard homes across Otago since 2011. In that time, I've seen everything from pristine Victorian villas in North Dunedin to weatherboards in Alexandra that have been absolutely hammered by fourteen summers of 35-degree heat followed by minus-ten winters.

I've also seen enough DIY disasters and cowboy paint jobs to know that our unique Otago climate doesn't mess around. That beautiful weatherboard home of yours? It's copping more abuse than a rental car on the Crown Range.

So let me share what actually works here, what doesn't, and how to avoid the expensive mistakes I see homeowners make every summer.

The Truth About Otago Weather (And Why Your Paint Hates It)

Look, I'm not going to sugarcoat it – Otago is brutal on exterior paint. I've literally watched paint peel off a Wanaka home three years after it was applied because the owner didn't account for our altitude UV. That's a $12,000 lesson right there.

Here's what your house is actually dealing with:

If you're in coastal Dunedin (St Clair, St Kilda, Brighton, the Peninsula), that romantic sea breeze is basically sandblasting your paint with salt 24/7. I painted a place in St Clair where the seaward side needed repainting four years before the street side. The salt spray is relentless – I've seen it eat through "15-year" paint in seven.

Central Otago folks (Alexandra, Cromwell, Clyde) – you know that joke about four seasons in one day? Your paint doesn't find it funny. I measured a 45-degree temperature swing on a Cromwell house wall once. In one day. The expansion and contraction literally cracks paint like crazy paving. Plus, that beautiful clear sky you love? It's delivering UV levels that would make Australia jealous.

Queenstown and Wanaka – you've got the worst of both worlds, honestly. Alpine UV that's basically paint kryptonite, plus those sneaky frosts that creep in when you're not looking. I've seen ice push under paint edges and pop entire sections off like nature's own paint stripper.

What It's Really Going to Cost You (No BS Edition)

Everyone wants to know the price, so let's get real. I'm talking 2025 prices, based on actual jobs I've quoted or done recently.

If You're Going DIY:

For a typical 150m² weatherboard home (that's your standard 3-bedder), here's what you're actually looking at:

The basics you'll need:

• Decent exterior paint (40L): $800-$1,200 (don't even think about the cheap stuff)
• Primer (20L): $400-$600
• Scrapers, sandpaper, brushes that won't fall apart: $200-ish
• Drop cloths, good masking tape, cleaning gear: $150
• Filler, caulk, and the bits you forgot: $100-150

Total damage: $1,650-$2,300

But here's the thing – that's if everything goes perfectly. Add another $500 for the stuff you'll inevitably need when you discover issues (and you will).

Getting a Pro (Like Me) to Do It:

Dunedin area: I'm charging $8,000-$12,000 for a full exterior. That includes everything – prep, materials, me dealing with your neighbour who wants to chat about their cousin who's also a painter.

Queenstown/Wanaka: You're looking at $10,000-$15,000. Yes, it's more expensive. Everything is in Queenstown. But also, your house is probably worth a million bucks, so perspective, right?

Central Otago: $7,500-$11,000. Slightly cheaper because I can actually work more days without rain delays.

These prices include the grunt work that DIYers often underestimate. I'm talking proper prep – the difference between a paint job that lasts 5 years and one that lasts 15.

The Timeline Reality Check

Here's where I watch DIY dreams die. Everyone thinks they'll knock it out in a couple of weekends. Let me paint you a picture (pun intended) of reality:

DIY Timeline (The Truth):

You're working weekends, weather permitting. Here's how it actually goes:

Weeks 1-2: You're keen. You inspect everything, make lists, spend way too long choosing colors. Your partner changes their mind about the color three times.

Weeks 3-4: First weekend washing. Second weekend realizing you need to wash it again properly. That green stuff on the south side? That's not coming off with the garden hose, mate.

Weeks 5-6: Scraping and sanding. This is where most people realize they've made a terrible mistake. Your arms will hurt in places you didn't know had muscles.

Week 7: It rains. You do nothing.

Week 8: Filling and priming. You'll run out of primer halfway through because coverage rates on tins are written by optimists.

Weeks 9-10: First coat. You'll miss spots. The color looks different than the sample. Minor domestic incident ensues.

Week 11: It rains again. You consider moving to Australia.

Week 12: Final coat, touch-ups, arguing about whether that bit under the kitchen window is noticeable (it is).

Total: 3 months of weekends (if you're lucky)

Professional Timeline (What I Can Do):

Day 1: Turn up, set up, wash everything properly with commercial gear

Days 2-3: Scraping, sanding, fixing all the problems you didn't know you had

Day 4: Prime everything (properly, with the right primer)

Days 5-6: First coat, looking magnificent

Day 7: Final coat, cleanup, you wondering why you didn't call me sooner

Total: One week, done and dusted

My Step-by-Step Process (Stolen Shamelessly After 14 Years of Trial and Error)

Step 1: Timing Is Everything (Seriously)

I don't care if you got a week off work in July – that's not when you paint in Otago. Here's when I actually book jobs:

Dunedin: November through March. April if you're feeling lucky. May if you're delusional.

Central Otago: October through April. But check the forecast obsessively. I've been caught by surprise frosts in October that turned fresh paint into abstract art.

Queenstown/Wanaka: December through March is your sweet spot. Any other time and you're gambling with the weather gods.

I need at least three clear days. Not "partly cloudy with a chance of showers" – proper clear days. Download every weather app. Become obsessed. Your paint job depends on it.

Step 2: The Inspector Gadget Phase

Before you touch anything with paint, you need to channel your inner building inspector. I walk around houses talking to myself, poking things with my scraper, generally looking dodgy. But here's what I'm actually looking for:

The bottom boards are usually rooted. Water splashes up, sits there, starts the rot party. In Dunedin, check the south side for moss that's basically eating your weatherboards for breakfast.

Window sills – water pools here like it's paying rent. Nine times out of ten, there's soft timber that needs fixing before any paint goes on.

In Central Otago, I'm looking for what I call "UV death" – where the north-facing walls have basically been cooked until the timber shows through. You can't just paint over this and hope for the best. Trust me, I tried that in 2012. Still embarrassed.

Step 3: Cleaning (The Most Underrated Step)

This is where DIYers always try to cut corners. "She looks pretty clean," they say. No, mate. No, she doesn't.

I hire a proper pressure washer from Hirepool (about $120/day). Not your mate's one from Bunnings – a proper 2000 PSI unit. Add some 30-Second Outdoor Cleaner (the green bottle from Mitre 10, about $35), and watch years of crud disappear.

Start from the top. Physics still works – water runs downhill. Keep the nozzle moving or you'll groove the timber like a '70s vinyl record.

In Dunedin, I sometimes need to hit the really grotty areas twice. That combination of salt and moss is stubborn as hell. Let it dry for at least two days. Three if it's humid (so basically always in Dunedin).

Step 4: The Scraping and Sanding Marathon

This is where you earn your beer. Get yourself a proper carbide scraper from PlaceMakers (the Bahco ones are choice, about $45). Your grandfather's old scraper might have sentimental value, but it won't cut it here.

Scrape with the grain, never against. I learned this the hard way on a villa in Roslyn – gouged the weatherboards so bad I had to use half a bucket of filler.

For sanding, do yourself a favor and hire a Festool from Kennards ($95/day). Your arms will thank you. Start with 80-grit for the rough stuff, 120-grit for general surfaces, finish with 180-grit.

Central Otago special tip: The timber there is often so dry it's basically kindling. Mist it lightly with water 30 minutes before sanding. Cuts the dust by half and stops the timber from fuzzing up.

Step 5: Fill Every Gap (Or Regret It Later)

Water is sneaky. It'll find any gap, get behind your paint, and throw its own little expansion party when it freezes. I use:

• Selleys No More Big Gaps for the, well, big gaps. It handles our temperature swings without cracking.
• Sika FC11 for anything that needs serious flexibility. This stuff could handle Otago weather even if we had earthquakes. Oh wait...
• Dulux Acragap for smaller gaps. Goes off quick, so you can paint over it the same day.

Never, ever fill when it's below 5°C. The filler won't cure properly and you'll be doing it again next year. Ask me how I know.

Step 6: Primer (The Unsung Hero)

If paint is the lead singer, primer is the bass player – doesn't get the glory but holds everything together.

For coastal Dunedin, I swear by Resene Wood Primer (oil-based). Yes, it's smelly. Yes, it's a pain to clean up. But it laughs at salt spray. Put it on thick on the weather sides.

Central Otago gets Dulux 1 Step Prep. It handles the temperature swings better than my marriage handles my singing. In summer, add some Floetrol to stop it drying too fast – otherwise you'll get brush marks that look like corduroy.

Queenstown/Wanaka – Resene Quick Dry is my go-to. You need to work fast between weather windows there, and this stuff dries quick enough that you can get a coat on between morning frost and afternoon rain.

Step 7: The Main Event (Actually Painting)

After all that prep, the painting is actually the easy bit. Here are my top picks after trying everything:

Resene Lumbersider – The Toyota Hilux of paint. Reliable, tough, handles anything. $310 per 10L, but worth every cent. I've used this on probably 200 houses.

Dulux Weathershield – Great for coastal areas. $265 per 10L. Slightly better value, still quality. I had this on my own place in St Kilda for 12 years.

Wattyl Solagard – My secret weapon for Central Otago. $295 per 10L. The UV resistance is mental. I painted a place in Cromwell with this in 2016 – still looks fresh.

First coat goes on thinned 5-10%. I know the tin says you don't need to, but the tin is wrong. Trust me. Use a 270mm roller for weatherboards – anything smaller and you'll be there till Christmas.

Time your painting. Not joking – I paint the east side in the afternoon, west side in the morning. Direct sun on wet paint makes it go weird. Technical term: "shithouse."

The Local Knowledge (Where to Get Your Gear)

After 14 years, I know every paint shop manager in Otago by name. Here's where to go:

Dunedin:

• Resene on Cumberland St – Ask for Steve, tell him Brad sent you. He'll sort you out with trade prices if you're nice.
• Dulux Trade on Police St – Good for bulk buys. They do decent deals on mistints for primer.
• Mitre 10 Mega Andersons Bay – Open weekends when you realize you forgot something.

Queenstown:

• Resene in Bush Creek – Smaller shop but good stock. The lady there (Carol) knows more about paint than I do.
• PlaceMakers Frankton – Best for tools and equipment.

Alexandra:

• PGG Wrightson – Surprisingly good paint selection for a rural store.

Wanaka:

• ITM on Ballantyne Rd – These guys get it. Good advice, good stock.

How to Not Get Ripped Off (Money-Saving Tips from a Bloke Who Charges for This Stuff)

Look, I charge good money for what I do, but if you're going DIY, here's how to save some cash:

1. Winter paint sales are mental. June-July, save 30%. Buy your paint then, store it in the garage, paint in summer.
2. Join the trade clubs at Resene or Dulux. It's free, saves you 15-20%. They don't check if you're actually a tradie.
3. Hire gear Friday afternoon, return Monday morning – same price as one day. I still do this.
4. Mistints are gold for primer/undercoat. Half price, who cares if your primer is pink?
5. Split costs with neighbors – buy in bulk, share equipment hire. I've seen whole streets do this in North East Valley.

When to Call Someone Like Me (No Shame in It)

I'm not here to take food off your table, but some jobs just need a pro:

• Your house is tall and you're afraid of heights (or your partner is afraid of you on heights)
• More than 20% of your boards are munted – this is restoration work, not painting
• Lead paint (pre-1970s) – don't mess with this stuff
• Heritage requirements – Dunedin Council will make your life hell if you stuff this up
• You value your weekends more than the money you'll save

Keeping It Looking Good (The Maintenance Gospel)

A good paint job should last 10-15 years if you look after it. Here's my maintenance schedule:

Every year:

• Autumn: Clean your bloody gutters. Water overflow ruins paint faster than anything.
• Spring: Hose down the walls. Just a gentle wash, nothing fancy.

Every 2-3 years:

• Get the 30-Second Outdoor Cleaner out again
• Check and recaulk around windows
• Touch up any chips before they become problems

Warning signs you're due for a repaint:

• The chalking test – rub your hand on it. If it looks like you've been eating donuts, it's time.
• You can see wood grain through the paint
• Any cracking or peeling (even tiny bits – it spreads like gossip)
• The color has faded more than your memories of being able to drink all night and work the next day

The Environmental Stuff (Because the Council Will Have My Head Otherwise)

Otago Regional Council is pretty strict about this stuff:

• Don't wash paint water into stormwater drains. Just don't.
• Lead paint needs professional removal. Not worth the risk or the fine.
• Paint tins go to the transfer station, not your regular bin.

If you want to go eco-friendly, Resene's Environmental Choice range is actually pretty good now. Five years ago it was rubbish, but they've sorted it out.

The Bottom Line

Look, I've painted hundreds of weatherboard homes across Otago. I've made every mistake possible, learned from grumpy old painters who've been doing this since the '70s, and figured out what actually works in our mental climate.

The difference between a paint job that lasts 5 years and one that lasts 15? It's 90% preparation, 10% paint. Every corner you cut in prep will haunt you like a bad hangover.

Whether you're battling Dunedin's salt spray, Central's temperature swings, or Queenstown's alpine assault, the principles are the same: respect the weather, don't rush the prep, and use decent materials.

And if it all seems too hard? Give me a call. I'll tell you straight up what it'll cost, how long it'll take, and I promise not to judge your color choices. Much.

The Quick Reference List (For When You Can't Be Bothered Reading My Ramblings)

Gear you actually need:

• Carbide scraper (not your granddad's)
• Decent sandpaper (80, 120, 180 grit)
• Brushes that won't shed (50mm and 75mm)
• 270mm weatherboard roller
• Canvas drop sheets (plastic is useless)
• 20L primer minimum
• 40L quality paint minimum
• Flexible filler and caulk
• More patience than you think

Weather rules:

• 3 clear days minimum
• 10°C-25°C temperature range
• Under 85% humidity
• Wind under 20km/h
• No frost warnings
• Not in bloody winter

Time reality check:

• DIY: 3 months of weekends
• Pro: 1 week

Money reality check:

• DIY materials: $2,000-$2,500 (with surprises)
• Professional: $7,500-$15,000 (no surprises)

Brad Hamilton has been painting Otago homes since 2011 and has strong opinions about people who paint over cobwebs. Find him at local paint shops arguing about coverage rates, or reach out through this website if you need your weatherboards sorted properly.